Fried Tagliatelle With Chickpeas and Smoky Tomatoes

1 hour, plus at least 8 hours’ soaking

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE SMOKY TOMATO OIL:

• 8 ounces/250 grams datterini or cherry tomatoes
• ½ cup/120 milliliters olive oil
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 2 ½ teaspoons chipotle chile flakes
• 1 ½ teaspoons sweet paprika
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt

FOR THE PASTA:

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 8 dried tagliatelle nests
• 1 cup/200 grams dried chickpeas, soaked 8 to 24 hours in plenty of cold water with 1/2 teaspoon baking soda (bicarbonate of soda)
• ½ teaspoon baking soda (bicarbonate of soda)
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 lemons, 1 halved and the other cut into 4 wedges
• 1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh parsley

PREPARATION

1. Make the smoky tomato oil: Place a medium sauté pan over high heat. Once hot, add the tomatoes and cook for 4 minutes, shaking the pan as needed, until tomatoes are charred on the outside but still retaining their shape. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool for 5 minutes. Stir in everything else and return to medium-low heat. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally as it bubbles very gently. Remove from the heat and set aside to infuse.
2. Prepare the pasta: While the tomato oil infuses, add the 2 tablespoons olive oil to a large, high-sided sauté pan and heat over medium-high. Once hot, add the tagliatelle nests and cook for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes on each side, or until nicely golden. (Don’t worry if you don’t get color on the sides.) Set the toasted tagliatelle nests aside and rinse out the pan.
3. Drain the soaked chickpeas and add them to the same pan along with 4 1/4 cups/1 liter water and 1/2 teaspoon baking soda (bicarbonate of soda). Return the pan to medium-high heat and bring to the boil, skimming the scum as needed. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover with a lid and cook for 10 to 15 minutes. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and test the chickpeas at this point. They should be soft but still retain their shape. Turn the heat to medium-high and bring to a simmer.
4. Stir in the garlic, then nestle in the fried tagliatelle nests. Replace the lid and cook, undisturbed, until pasta is tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 5 to 10 minutes, or according to package directions. Remove the lid and, without stirring, squeeze over the juice from the lemon halves.
5. Spoon the smoky tomato oil on top, sprinkle with the parsley and serve directly from the pan. Serve with the extra lemon wedges to squeeze on top to taste.